Canadian Dream

Cape Breton greeted me with, guess what, rain. Bucket loads of rain. When I first arrived in Nova Scotia, Cape Breton was in the throws of beating its former rainfall record set in 1958, from 23.1 to 64.8mm of rain in one day! Over the first few days it rain a whopping 123.4mm. I can now proclaim to be an expert in rainfall. I have walked in every type of shower imaginable, misty to moderate, to down right biblical. I'm sure I can even smell rain in the air.

Despite the weather, Cape Breton has much more to offer. Just last year in 2008, Cape Breton was named # 1 island in the continental U.S.and Canada and10th best in the world to visit by Travel & Leisure Magazine. In the same year, it was called an island paradise in Fordor's Travel News and just a cool four years earlier National Geographic Travel Magazine recognized Cape Breton as the second best sustainable tourism destination in the entire world. Those are some pretty impressive titles.

Unfortunately, since my arrival the weather has until today, been less then impressive, causing scenic Cape Breton to be shrouded in mist and fog. My first day on the island was amongst one of its torrential downpours. I walked until I was soaked. Before leaving the Clansman I had a choice. I could walk the regular highway and eventually have to summit the grueling Kelly's Mountain, a pass through the highway that summits a mountain that takes no less then 15 minutes to drive up at 100km an hour. Or I could take the scenic route 4, which weaved in and out of coastal communities that lined Bras D'or Lake. Sure the locals said that it was a hilly road. But how bad could it be in comparison to Kelly's Mountain, I thought. Well, let me tell you this. When the locals say, "it's a hilly road."  Well this is what they're really saying. "You may have a heart attack/heat stoke on the god forbidden road lined with steep constant demon hills that nearly kills my cars transmission, but it's up to you!"

After I left the Clansman I walked to Sydney Cape Breton. There I was offered a free room at The Beacon. On my way to Sydney I met one of the friendliest police officers I have ever met. He stopped me on the side of the highway, while I was walking in the rain and offered to let me dry and wait out the weather in his cop car. I must admit, I was a little nervous at first. I had never been in a cop car and couldn't help but feel like I was doing something wrong. My time with Mr. Friendly Cop passed quickly and before you know it I was walking again.

Then began my journey on route 4. Now five days later and most certainly 10 pounds lighter I have arrived in St.Peters. I have never sweated so profusely in my life. I could feel the pounds melting of me as I walked, learning first hand that eyes brows are meant to keep the rainfall sweat from blinding your vision. The sun was hiding, but the humidity was intense. Imagine ascending and descending mountains in an oven, pushing a 120 pound Japanese Taxi. I challenged myself to the next level and boy do I feel proud. I'm a real charity walker now. Christened no less with the intensity of insanity. There were times while walking and sweating, that I imagined myself in one of those 90's Power-Aid commercials with the cheesy music and people sweating in funky colors like green and orange. It was pretty funny and it helped pass the time.

Now, 100kms later, I'm told I have passed the worst of it. The road should somewhat flatten from here on out. Like usual I have met some really great people and had a good time. I stayed in my first 4 star hotel in Ben Eion, slept in a creepy old cabin (well attempted to sleep in an old creepy cabin but chickened out and pitched my tent in the ladies yard), crashed in a cot in an old convenience store attached to an elderly couples house and played seniors merchandise Bingo at an Indian Reservation! I can already tell that Cape Breton is a place where stories and adventures are born. I am eagerly waiting what the future holds.